In 2020, I embarked on a six-month road trip across Brazil in my trailer, and one of the most incredible places I visited was São Jorge, a small village nestled in the heart of the Chapada dos Veadeiros in Goiás. I stayed there for about a month, and I can assure you, it's a truly unique place. They say that the Chapada sits on a massive quartz crystal plate, and because of this, the land exudes a different kind of energy for those who walk upon it. I don't know if it's true, but I can guarantee there's no place like it in the world!
Chapada is becoming more popular among foreigners, but the truth is that tourism is still very local. I rarely encountered foreigners there and I've been there for more than 10 times. For me, this is surprising, because besides having an infinite number of waterfalls, which easily fills a week of activities in a trip, the energy and vibe of the place is simply incredible. This is one of the places in Brazil that makes me think, 'why don't foreigners know about this place?' And that's exactly why I started writing here on this blog.
How to get there?
Chapada dos Veadeiros is only a two-hour drive from Brasilia. So, the best way to get there is to fly to the capital and rent a car at the airport. There are several buses leaving from the bus station to Alto Paraíso, the largest city in the Chapada, but besides being much faster and easier, renting a car is the best way to get around the hundreds of waterfalls there. The road from Brasilia is a very good, straight, and fully paved road. The only problem is that precisely because of this, many people end up driving very fast and hitting wild animals along the way. Unfortunately, I've seen many dead animals on the road. :(
I've been to the Chapada with various types of cars, from the simplest and most popular to my 4x4 Hilux, which can handle anything. My recommendation is that if you can, rent a slightly higher car. This is because to reach some waterfalls, the journey is more complicated, and a larger car may be more comfortable. But if you're traveling alone or as a couple and don't want to spend too much, a small car will also work. My only tip is to get basic insurance to avoid headaches later if something unexpected happens.
Best time to go?
Central Brazil experiences two distinct seasons: a dry season from May to October and a rainy season from November to April. Understanding these seasonal variations is crucial when planning a trip to Chapada dos Veadeiros, as they dramatically change the landscape, water temperatures, and overall hiking experience.
The dry season, spanning from May to October, offers clear, tranquil waters and a lower waterfall flow rate. The reduced chance of rain makes this period ideal for hiking and exploring the region. Personally, I consider it the optimal time to visit Chapada.
The rainy season, from November to April, brings increased water volume to the waterfalls, resulting in murkier waters and potentially challenging trail conditions. However, this doesn't diminish the overall experience of visiting the Chapada; it simply requires a bit more preparation. So, go ahead and plan your trip, but be aware of the potential for rain.
Where to stay?
Chapada dos Veadeiros is huge, but there are three main cities that serve as a base for most visitors. I recommend choosing one of them as your home base.
Alto Paraíso
Alto Paraíso is the largest city in Chapada, offering the widest range of accommodations and services. Its central location makes it the ideal starting point for exploring the region's many waterfalls. Additionally, its proximity to Brasilia makes it easy to access. I've had the opportunity to stay there several times and can confirm that it's an excellent option for those seeking comfort. However, I believe that Alto Paraíso doesn't have the same atmosphere as the other smaller towns in the Chapada.
São Jorge
I spent a month living in São Jorge and I can confidently say that it has the most incredible energy of any place in Chapada. The village exudes a unique hippie-cool vibe with a touch of sophistication. Just a few years ago, São Jorge was off the grid, but now it offers a good range of accommodations, dining options, and bars. Even though it's about 30km from Alto Paraíso, the journey is well worth it. The highway between these two cities is something else! Not only are there stunning waterfalls nearby, but the entrance to the national park, a must-see in the Chapada, is actually located within São Jorge. In my humble opinion, if I had to choose, I would stay in São Jorge.
Cavalcante
During one of my numerous visits to Chapada, I decided to stay in Cavalcante and I'm so glad I did. Located 80km north of Alto Paraíso, Cavalcante is less accessible, offering a more tranquil and chilled experience. While it may be a bit farther from popular attractions like the National Park, it's home to many stunning waterfalls. The city doesn't have the same vibrant nightlife as the other two, but it offers a more laid-back atmosphere. I highly recommend staying in Cavalcante if you're looking for a more peaceful and off-the-beaten-path experience.
My Favorite Waterfalls
Cataratas dos Couros
Catarata dos Couros is definitely one of the best waterfalls in Chapada. Just an hour away from Alto Paraíso, it has easy access by any type of vehicle. The name 'cataratas' (huge waterfalls) is no coincidence. The volume of water that falls over the waterfalls is impressive. However, depending on the time of year, this volume may decrease slightly. I've been there several times and I'm still amazed by its immensity. It's incredible!
Price: No guide is necessary and the entrance is free, although there is a parking fee (~$5 per car).
Trail: Easy - 3km - ~2h/3h average round trip.
Don't forget to have lunch at "Rancho da Dona Luzia". This is a very simple restaurant at the exit of the waterfall that serves typical regional food. It's delicious! You can arrange the lunch time with the people who guard the cars at the entrance of the waterfall, so when you come out, your lunch will be ready.
Complexo Macacão
The name 'Complex' does justice to the place. I'm not talking about one, but several waterfalls that appear as the Macaco River descends, transforming the place into something magical. I was only able to visit once, but I can't forget it! First, because the place is not very well-known, so the chances of being alone there are high, which is unique. Second, the more than 30km of dirt road on the way are not for everyone. I faced this challenge with my Hilux 4x4 and even so it was complicated. So be prepared because it's not very easy to get to.
One of the biggest and most beautiful waterfalls is the "Catedral", which truly resembles a huge masterpiece that makes us feel small. The size of the rock is impressive.
Price: $8 for the entrance fee + ~$25 per person for a guide that has to be hired in the city.
Trail: Moderate - 4,5km - ~3h/4h average round trip.
Complexo do Prata
I've had the opportunity to visit the Prata Complex twice in recent years, and I still feel like I haven't fully explored it. There are 7 waterfalls along the 14km trail that are breathtaking. The "Rei do Prata" and "Rainha do Prata" waterfalls are the most spectacular, but I enjoyed swimming and relaxing at the "Passador Waterfall" the most, which is located halfway along the trail. There are several natural pools that have formed over the years and seem made to refresh our souls.
Prata is about 65km from Cavalcante, so I recommend this trip for those staying there. If you're in Alto Paraíso or São Jorge, it will be at least a 3-hour drive each way, which I think is a bit too much for a day trip.
Price: $10 entrance fee + ~$25 per person for a guide that has to be hired in the city.
Trail: Moderate - 14km round trip - ~4h/5h average.
Parque Nacional
The National Park is a must-do in my humble opinion. Not because it has the best waterfalls, but the fact that such a large area is preserved by a federal agency is already sensational and should be supported. Everything inside is very well cared for and preserved.
There are three possible trails inside the park that are divided by colors. The blue trail is the easiest and can be done in 1 hour, the red and yellow trails, which have an intermediate level, can be completed in 4 hours. Each one leads to different places within the park. I've already done the yellow trail, which is the most famous in the park because it has more attractions. The Salto Waterfall, for example, is over 120 meters high. It's breathtaking
Getting to the Park is super easy, especially if you're staying in São Jorge, as there are no dirt roads and the entrance is just 1km from the center of São Jorge village. My tip is to arrive as early as possible to do the trails with fewer people and less sun.
Price: $8 entrance fee, which has to be bought on the official website.
Trail: Moderate - 11km for the yellow trail - ~4h/5h round trip.
Vale da Lua
Vale da Lua is one of the most iconic and beautiful tours in Chapada dos Veadeiros. As the name suggests - Moon Valley - the formations along the São Miguel River literally resemble lunar landscapes, which is quite rare and therefore attracts many tourists seeking that "instagrammable" photo. Additionally, the easy access, as the valley is located halfway between São Jorge and Alto Paraíso, also helps to make the destination one of the most touristic in the Chapada.
My suggestion is: if it's your first time in Chapada dos Veadeiros, Vale da Lua is a must-visit. But try to plan to wake up early and go at the opening time. This way you can escape the peak hours and still take that perfect photo for your Instagram. :)
Price: $8 entrance fee.
Trail: Easy - 1.5km - ~1h/2h round trip.
What to eat?
Brazil is amazing for many reasons, and food is definitely one of them. The flavors and typical dishes vary greatly from region to region, and Goiás is one of the most incredible places to eat in our country. I lived there for six years and I can say that "Goiana cuisine" is one of my favorites in the world. Among the hundreds of typical dishes of the state, you cannot miss trying three of them.
Pamonha is a typical dish from the Brazilian countryside, made from grated corn and milk. You can find it in many places in the country, but the Goiás' pamonha is special. I've never made pamonha, but they say that for a pamonha to be really good, nothing else should be added to the mixture besides corn. That's how Goiás pamonhas are made. The taste is very unique and can't be described to someone who has never tried it. There are two types of pamonha, the "doce" (sweet), which has a slightly sweet cheese filling, and the "salgada" (salty), which comes with seasoned sausage and cheese. There's no right time to eat pamonha, it can be breakfast, lunch, snack or dinner. My favorite is the salty pamonha, but I suggest you try both and decide for yourself.
"Empadão Goiano" is a savory pastry you won't find anywhere else in Brazil. It's filled with chicken, sausage, olives, and other ingredients depending on where you go. A true Goiás Empadão must have a type of local palm heart called 'guariroba' (or 'gueroba' for the locals), which is a bit bitter. I love it, but I think if you try it for the first time you might find the taste a bit strange. However, I recommend you try a real Empadão with guariroba to understand what I'm talking about. I'm already salivating just describing this delicacy to you!
Galinhada com Pequi is a typical dish from Goiás that many Brazilians have never even tried. It's basically rice cooked in the broth of a farm-raised chicken and pequi, a typical fruit from the region. Pequi is a small yellow fruit with a taste so unique that it's impossible to describe (I've tried a thousand times and failed miserably). Many people in Brazil have never even heard of it, let alone tasted it. I'm not from Goiás, but I lived there for 6 years and during that time I ate a lot of pequi. My only tip is don't bite into the whole pequi. Since it's full of thorns inside, you might end up in the hospital!
I hope my tips help you to decide what to do when you go to Chapada!
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