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Pirenópolis, a hidden gem in central Brazil

Foto do escritor: Gustavo GalliGustavo Galli

Piri, as we affectionately call it, is one of those small towns with a colonial air, old houses, a main church, and cobblestone streets that you fall in love with at first sight.


I've been going to Pirenópolis since I was 17. I spent my first New Year's Eve away from my parents there. I remember it like it was yesterday when we got our parents' approval to travel all friends together for the first time. The hostel we stayed at, the tiny room, and the beers we drank secretly. New Year's Eve was chaotic because it rained a lot, but I still only have good memories of that day.


I've been there so many times that I've lost count, but every time I talk about this place, I have a pleasant feeling of longing and good memories. Few places I've been to give me this feeling, and Pirenópolis is one of them. Maybe it's the energy of the waterfalls, the delicious food, or the late afternoons with an ice-cold beer in front of the main church. Maybe it's a little bit of all of that. I don't know. But just talking about it makes me want to go back.



Let's get down to business! My tips for visiting Pirenópolis!


How to get there?


There are two major cities near Pirenópolis: Goiânia and Brasília. So, you'll most likely have to fly to one of them, rent a car, and drive for about 2 hours to reach "Piri". Both cities are approximately 80 miles (130 km) away, but the road from Brasília is usually a bit faster. If you're coming from São Paulo or Rio de Janeiro, I recommend flying to Brasília as it's closer and often cheaper, since it's the capital of Brazil and has many more daily flights.


There are buses that depart daily from Brasília and Goiânia to Pirenópolis, but I strongly believe it's worth spending a little extra to rent a simple car to have more flexibility to visit the dozens of waterfalls near the city. This will allow you to explore at your own pace and discover hidden gems.


What to do in Piri?

Visiting the Waterfalls

The waterfalls are undoubtedly the highlight of Pirenópolis. Most are located on private property and therefore charge entrance fees. Prices vary, but in my opinion, they are all quite reasonable. These are some of my favorite waterfalls:


  1. Cachoeiras dos Dragões (Dragons' Waterfalls): Located approximately 40 km from the city, this complex of 8 waterfalls is within a preserved property owned by the Eishoj Zen Monastery. The circuit is circular with an easy 4.5 km trail. Along the way, there are signs with Buddhist poems that refer to each waterfall, setting the tone for the tour with incredible energy. It's definitely my favorite in the region. My tip here is to buy the ticket online, which costs US$12.


  1. Cachoeira Meia Lua (Half Moon Waterfall): Although it's not the most stunning waterfall, Meia Lua holds a special place in my heart as it was the first one I visited in Pirenópolis. It's very close to the city (10 km) and a good option for those who want a quicker trip. The only downside is that it's usually more crowded, so my tip here is to arrive a bit earlier to enjoy the place when it's less busy. The entrance fee is around US$7.


  1. Cachoeira do Lázaro (Lázaro Waterfall): Besides being beautiful, this waterfall is just 13 km from the city center (a 30-minute drive), making it super accessible. The coolest thing is that you can visit another waterfall with the same ticket: Cachoeira Santa Maria (Santa Maria Waterfall), which has a small sandy beach ideal for laying out a towel and sunbathing between dips in the icy water. For children, this is the ideal waterfall. The entrance fee is around US$7.


Walk around the city

Founded in the 18th century, Pirenópolis is a colonial town with Portuguese architecture and cobblestone streets. Everything here is charming. Walking through the streets at dusk is one of the most special things you can do, especially after a tiring day at the waterfalls. You can start at the Matriz Church (Main Church), which is one of the city's landmarks, but you don't necessarily need a fixed destination. Just wandering and soaking in the atmosphere is a wonderful experience. Rua do Lazer offers a variety of restaurants, bars, and craft shops. Take your time to admire the architectural details of the colonial houses, with their colorful windows and doors, tiled roofs, and intricate wooden details. You'll also find a variety of local crafts, such as ceramics, fabrics, and decorative objects. The city offers a tranquil and relaxing atmosphere, ideal for those seeking to escape the hustle and bustle of big cities.


Eat and Drink


Rua do Lazer is the main spot for restaurants and bars in the city. There you'll find about a dozen of them that get crowded at night. The vibe is super nice for an ice-cold beer, and I strongly recommend finding a nice place to sit, but although the food is good, I've never found a restaurant here that's particularly noteworthy. My tip is to have one or two beers and then walk for 10 minutes to Botequim Mercatto, where you'll eat and drink very well, with a less crowded atmosphere.


As in all cities in Goiás, you eat very well in Pirenópolis. Since I no longer live in Goiás, every time I go back, I look for a good Empadão Goiano (a type of savory pie) and a Pamonha (a corn-based dish), which are typical foods from there and are unmatched anywhere else in the world. There's no specific place to buy these foods, so keep an eye out for the small shops in the city center; you're sure to find some of them.


I hope you enjoy this place that I consider so special! :)

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